Hey, everyone! This past week, I’ve spent half the week in Gyeongju and the other half back in Seoul. Gyeongju was an incredible break from the busy-ness of Busan, and served as a sort of recovery period before heading back to Seoul. I am liking South Korea more and more – it certainly has been a grower for me.

Gyeongju

Originally, I was planning to stay in Busan a week then take an overnight ferry to Jeju Island, which a number of people told me was supposedly really incredible. But it was cold enough in Busan, with winds blowing in from the ocean. I was thinking Jeju would be more of the same. It just wasn’t the right season for it. So instead, I took a detour to Gyeongju. I had only briefly heard it mentioned when doing some research on Reddit, but it is a town rich with history. And it is also home to a number of UNESCO sites.

Because it was a bit of commute day, I spent the early afternoon blogging and didn’t have much planned for the evening other than finding food. I hadn’t eaten a lot that day, so after I finished writing, I was eager to find food. I ended up getting noodles at a quaint shop near the hostel. Just two older Korean ladies working. Those tend to be my favorite spots. Love the grannies haha.

I was quick to meet a few people at the hostel. In the evening, I ended up walking around with Andrew – a Korean guy who grew up mostly in America but was spending some time in South Korea with his family while between jobs. He is only briefly in Gyeongju.

We walked down the main strip, with was host to lots of food stalls. Bread, bubble tea, fried chicken, meat skewers, etc. And then the occasional restaurants. Dotted among the food were mini-arcades. The little claw machines where you can win a stuffed animal or keychain, etc. Andrew bragged that he was very good at them. He actually was! He ended up winning me a little Jigglypuff keychain which I’ve since attached to my bag haha.

I wasn’t very hungry (mainly because the grannies served me a HUGE bowl of noodle soup… and I ate it all), but we did split some fried chicken and got bubble teas as well. Yum!

We walked around for a while. One thing I haven’t yet mentioned is that Gyeongju is home to a large amount of tombs/burial mounds from Kings of yore (well, and other important people). They look like large hills and they’re spread out around the town. In some areas, there will be two or three but in others, they cover quite a large space. I hadn’t really seen them during the daytime, but was looking forward to checking them out more the following day.

Eventually, I retired for the night but Andrew and I made plans to do some exploring in the morning. We got some breads/pastries from a nearby bakery which were VERY tasty. Honestly, it was a very food-y day. Later, we went to another bakery which was decorated in a traditional Hanok style. We had more pastries like tiramisu and cheesecake, and then other snacks from the grocery store (Pocky, a Korean version of Sun Chips, etc.).

However, the absolute winner of the day was… the strawberries. I had confessed to Andrew how desperate I was for fruit but hadn’t bought any yet. He told me Korea has the best fruit, but especially raved about the strawberries. The section at the store for strawberries was pretty absurd. Packs and packs and packs of strawberries were stacked on top of one another. People were picking up the packages, sniffing them, then setting them down. Everyone was looking for the perfect batch of strawberries. But, joke’s on them, because WE’RE the ones who got them. Andrew picked out a box of strawberries I wouldn’t have thought to get. They were a white-ish pink, with some yellow in them. They were very large and to me, didn’t look ready to eat. I cautioned Andrew that he might be hyping them out too much, that maybe I would be disappointed. But trust… I was not disappointed. They were incredible.

In the early afternoon, we parted ways. Andrew had to get to his Buddhist temple stay (where he… stays at a Buddhist temple and does Buddhist-y things, I guess?). With a whole afternoon to enjoy still, I walked around to see the burial mounds again. There is one particular park that has a lot of them. There is one that I was able to pay a very small fee to go into (Cheonmachong). After excavating the tomb back in the ’70s, they preserved the artifacts and had a lot of information written about them.

Gyeongju used to be the capital of the land (now South Korea) during the Silla era, which was 57 BCE – 676 CE. So… this stuff was OLD. And very cool. I was quite in awe, just looking around at all the mounds and the different ways the buildings were decorated.

Another added bonus of Gyeongju was that… it felt quieter. I was on a stroll one evening and I was literally the only person on the street. Sweet relief! Of course, it depends on which street I’m on. If it was the one with the arcades and food stalls, it’s always pretty busy.

In the evening, I went to a restaurant to get some bibimbap (my favorite Korean dish). This one was a beef tartare bibimbap, which I’d never had before. It was really delicious, as were the sides. I’d since learned how to say “it’s delicious!” in Korean, so I said that to the server as I was leaving. I think as a thanks for my thanks, he gave me a traditional Korean knot for my keychain, which is now ALSO on my bag. I was the only person in the restaurant. I love when that happens.

And yet, the day STILL was not over.

Cheomseongdae Observatory and More

After dinner, I walked along another UNESCO site that is home to Asia’s oldest astronomical observatory. At night, it was lit up with changing lights. I liked pink the most. I walked around the area, which I think would be really lovely in about a month, when the cherry blossoms are in bloom. For now, everything is mostly still dead.

I decided to walk to Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond. I’d read it was supposed to be a lovely area, and really nice for sunsets and at night. Had I known I had to pay (again, a very small fee, like $1 USD), I would have gone during sunset. The pond was quite calm and reflected the palace structures, which were lit up very beautifully.

My last stop of the night was the Woljeonggyo Bridge.

It was a great way to wrap up the evening, because it was my favorite lit-up structure. Very cool.

The next morning, I decided to return to the same area to see the observatory and bridge during the daytime. Nearby was an old Hanok village. It’s hard for me to tell at times if these things are reconstructed. A lot of the time, there are bits and pieces that are original, but certain things will be reconstructed or repaired, etc. Still, it was a very cool vibe. At times, I felt I was walking through the set of some anime show.

This was the warmest day in a LONG time. I was able to soak up the sun and enjoy the weather. Yay! However, I was feeling a little worn down from all the adventuring so far. I returned to my hostel to just relax and play video games, do laundry, etc. In the evening, I got ordered a pot of delicious kimchi dumplings. YUM! After my first bite, I told the server it was delicious. She came over and showed me how to properly drizzle the sauce on the dumplings. Prior to her instruction, I had dunked the dumplings, as if it was sushi in soy sauce. Despite the language barrier, connection is still possible. I’ll write more on that later.

Bulguksa Temple & Hike

I had been sleeping in most mornings, but I am determined to change that in an effort to avoid the crowds and take advantage of the day. So… I got up early. While having toast and cereal in the common area, I asked two of the girls sitting there what they were getting up to. It turns out, one of them had the same plan as me. We didn’t really make plans to go together, but when we’d both finished our food, we each walked to the bus stop. She ended up sitting near me and we spent the day adventuring together.

Silvia is from Italy but has been traveling for a while now. She was in the Philippines prior to South Korea, so she gave me some advice for my trip there. We talked about a lot of stuff. She speaks Italian, English, and Spanish. Later in the day, we talked in Spanish a little bit. I am quite rusty since other than Duolingo, I haven’t talked with people much, but I was surprised that I could understand what she was telling me.

We got off the bus and took a short stroll to the temple. It was a large complex and there were Buddhists chanting. This was my first time seeing this, but I’m sure I’ll be seeing it more and more in the next several months. The temple had a lot of multi-colored lanterns. Prior to this, I’d only seen them in yellow and red. It was cool to see the rainbow of color. The lanterns had rectangular papers dangling down from them, which I believe are wishes for prosperity, good luck, etc.

After the temple, Silvia and I continued on to see the Buddha that is preserved within a mountainside. The area was called the Seokguram Grotto. No photos were allowed inside, unfortunately, but it was a large, beautiful Buddha with some other figures surrounding it (Bodhisattvas, disciples, etc.).

When we were at breakfast earlier in the day, the other girl at the table mentioned she had hiked there the day before. She recommended we continue on to the peak of the hill, which had really nice views and some snow. I’m glad we did, because it was the cherry of the day. The hike wasn’t very difficult but a little slippery at times. And there definitely was some melting snow near the top of the mountain. The views were pretty stunning, with a fading gradient of mountains rolling off into the distance.

Silvia and I then began our descent, talking all the way. We wound through the Korean woods, spotting the occasional bird or butterfly. We even saw a chipmunk. It was such a nice day!

We both are going to Japan after South Korea. She will arrive a bit before me, but we have some overlap in Osaka, so we connected on Instagram and will likely meet up for dinner. So fun to make new friends!

Once we arrived at the hostel, we parted ways – I was ready for food! I went to a restaurant nearby and got soft tofu kimchi stew. I had no idea what the restaurant served because they didn’t have a menu outside. The menu was on the wall and was in Korean lol. I used Google Translate. This is often the case in Korea. I have no idea where to eat because I don’t know how much stuff costs, or what the restaurant is even selling. But it’s a good way to get out of my comfort zone and try new cuisines.

Believe it or not, it was only 2.30pm by this time. After eating, I relaxed and played video games. In the evening, I walked around and tried to find some food. Eventually, I just wandered into a place and ordered some kind of pork dish. It was… incredible. And the amount of banchan that came with it was honestly absurd. I couldn’t believe it.

Unfortunately, that was my last night in Gyeongju. I had briefly considered extending my stay, but I’d already bought my train ticket and reserved my hostel. It seemed like more of a hassle. I wondered if I would have spoiled a good thing had I stayed longer. So the next morning, I bought one more delicious pack of strawberries and then returned to Seoul… to really experience it this time.

Back to Seoul

I’d only had one night in Seoul, the evening I arrived in South Korea. I hardly saw anything, since I was in a state of panic trying to find an outlet adapter haha.

I didn’t arrive to Seoul until later in the afternoon. By the time I checked in, I thought maybe I would just have a chill evening. But… then I changed my mind. I decided to just walk in one direction to get a sense of the area I was in. Buttttt then I saw a sign leading up to the Seoul Tower, and I couldn’t resist. Could I make it before the sun went down?

The hike was uphill from the start, but not too difficult. I passed through a little garden which would have been lovely in a month or two. The landscape along the walk was done really nicely. There were ponds, small pockets of gardens, etc.

The sun was starting to lower and the sky was lit up in a lovely manner. I still had about a half mile to get to the top of the tower. I picked up the pace… and I DID make it in time! I was worried I wouldn’t get a good view, because so much of the scenery below was obscured by trees. I needed tickets to go up the tower, but wasn’t going to be doing that.

Luckily, there were platforms all around the top of the mountain, which provided excellent views.

There was also a wall of “love locks,” which is common in Paris as well as many other places in the world.

I was feeling really happy with my decision. Yay!

I then walked back down and got a kebab for dinner. I really needed to eat a meal where I knew exactly what I was ordering haha. It delivered and was a nice to have for a change. Gotta keep things fresh!

And then… bedtime.

Namdeamun, Myeongdong, and Gwangjang Markets

Somehow I seem to have nearly blacked out this day from my memory haha. Maybe because I was walking around so much.

I took the bus to Namdaemun Market, which is a really popular clothing and food market in downtown Seoul. Clothes, clothes, clothes, clothes. Some of them were actually pretty cool! I might stop back once Jasper is in town. There was a baseball cap I might like to buy.

I saw a sign for a nearby attraction called the Sungnyemun Gate. This structure is regarded as the oldest wooden structure in Seoul, so obviously I went to pay that a quick visit, too.

I continued on and found that I was actually crossing through some other points of interest I’d had on my list. One of them was Myeongdong shopping district, which was INCREDIBLY busy. People, people, people. Ahh!!! Funnily enough, I ended up bumping into Qinglong – a friend I’d made at the Gyeongju hostel. It was totally unexpected. We ended up catching up for a few minutes and then wished each other well.

Afterwards, I discovered I was walking right next to the Wall of Culture, which was ANOTHER thing on my list. It is basically a little stream to take a stroll, but the water is very clear. So clear that I was able to spot some very big fish! And a crane!

My main objective of the day was to stop at two food stalls my brother had continually recommended me to visit. One of them was featured on a Netflix show about street food, where they make “knife-cut” buckwheat noodles. The other was a visit to Mama Goo to get some tteokbokki (simmered rice cake). I waited in line for the knife-cut noodles but was seated very quickly. I ordered the cold noodles which surprisingly were really good. I didn’t think noodles in cold broth would be good but it certainly was. I also got some mandu dumplings, which I loved. I wish I’d taken pictures, but forgot. Afterwards, I went to see Mama Goo. It was a feat to find her – I was afraid she wasn’t working that day… but sure enough! SUCCESS! I was pleased I was able to text Dan and Maisie to tell them I’d visited these spots.

After, I took the bus back to my hostel and chilled out for the evening.

Bukhansan National Park

I’ve been sleeping like shit because the hostel I’m staying at is in Itaewon, which is a bit of a party spot. The guy above me got home at 6am one morning. Yesterday, he got home at 4.30am. And then proceeded to snore, as people tend to when they get wasted lol. So, when my alarm went off at 8.30am… I really just wanted to sleep in. But I resisted! Well, I hit snooze, but then I got up.

My mission of the day was to get to Bukhansan National Park to go on a nice hike.

I took the train, then transferred to a bus, and then walked to the start of the hike. The trails were a bit confusing. There were so many different options. Sometimes, it would show the “peak” was this way, and then by the time you get to the next signpost, the “peak” trail wasn’t listed anymore. What the hell? So anyway, I mostly just kept following people. I did NOT make it to the peak I originally planned, but I’m going to try to get there with Jasper when he’s in town.

The walk was excellent, and despite it being busy with other hikers, I didn’t feel too bothered. I think maybe because so many people hike at different paces, so I was able to pass people by when needed, etc.

I think this was the first time in South Korea where I actually was blown away. The landscape of the mountains was just absolutely incredible. I was really eager to get up to a viewpoint where the trees wouldn’t be obscuring my views of the area.

I was prepared for an hour and a half hike (or longer) to reach one of the peaks, but I ended up making it in about an hour and fifteen. The last few minutes were a bit of rock-climbing, with a rope involved, but I made it safely. (Side note: on the way down, there was a guy who actually slipped down smooth rock for a second. He wasn’t on the trail, either. Could have easily ended in disaster, but he was fine.)

I ate a protein bar and a dessert as a reward for making it to the top. The views were sublime. On one side, I had the really lovely mountain, with even more mountains further behind. Another side had another really beautifully shaped mountain. And then there was another view that showed the edge of the mountain transforming to a peninsula-sort of section, with the city sprawled all the way to the horizon. It was pretty unreal.

Okay, Korea. I SEE YOU. Absolutely beautiful. This is why I need to always make an effort to get outside the cities and go to national parks!

After enjoying the scenery, I began my descent. I spotted a gorgeous wild dog resting in the sun. Since I’d passed some temples along the way, I couldn’t help but think that maybe the dog was sort of a spirit animal – protecting the area and watching over the hikers.

What a day!

Miscellaneous

Aside from Qinglong, I have also had some random encounters with other people I’ve met along the journey so far. There was one guy in my Seoul hostel room who I’d seen at my very first hostel in Taipei. We joked about how people seem to be doing a “Taiwan > South Korea > Japan” trajectory right now.

I also have bumped into ANOTHER person from Gyeongju at my hostel. It’s so funny. I get that we’re traveling and often staying in/around tourist-y areas, but to bump into other travelers in a city of 9 million is honestly absurd.

Art of the Week

I have to admit, this one was maybe slightly influenced by Lady Gaga and her new album. If anything, just the hat. And maybe Melania Trump’s hat LOL.

I did a little bit of writing in Gyeongju but the common area at this current hostel isn’t really the best. I will probably try to draw/write tomorrow, since it’ll be cold out.

In other news… I THINK I’m going to start a new creative venture, which I’ve been thinking about for a while. It’s going to be a podcast, which will be a verbal translation of these blog posts. So, if people don’t want to read it, they can just listen to it. I also want to interview some of the people I travel with, to ask them about their lives, their travels, etc. We’ll see how it all turns out. It’s going to be very casual since I don’t have a proper microphone. But it will be a fun experiment. At least I hope.

Reflections

I mentioned earlier about a concept that came to me – that connection can transcend language. I guess maybe for some people it’s obvious, but it is something I am only just beginning to learn. I think after Taiwan and when first arriving in Korea, I was feeling very… “lost in translation.” Like, how could I connect with people when I can’t speak the language? But I am learning that there can always be connection.

A few special moments for me recently were:

-The man from the restaurant giving me the black Korean knot keyring
-The woman sharing the “water drop” street food snack with me
-The granny showing me how to properly drizzle the sauce on my dumplings
-A man who spoke no English, who saw I was confused on how to get out of the Seoul Station, looking at my map with me and helping point me in the right direction
-When I was struggling to separate an egg with chopsticks, a server noticed and rushed over with a fork

These are things that people don’t have to go out of their way to do… but they did. And even though they are small and fleeting moments, a small connection is made.

I have just about a week left in Seoul. Tomorrow is going to be pretty cold, so I think I’m just going to do laundry and MAYBE go to a museum. I am potentially meeting up with a friend I met in New Zealand for dinner, which would be really fun. But the day after tomorrow is when ANOTHER friend from New Zealand, Jasper, arrives. We’ll have five nights together. I’m so excited to spend time with him!

Until next time – sending you all my love. x